60 Lost in Circulation : Loha Prasast Wat Rachanatda

 Loha Prasast Wat Rachanatda (literally translation --> Metal Castle of Rachanatda Temple) which was just completed recently after more than a century of construction, is renown as the only metal castle (prasast) in Thailand and the only remain in the whole world (it seems that the other one in India was already destroyed). The building is 7-storey high with 37 dark color metal spires with very detailed decorations. It is rather different from most of Buddhism architecture we have here in Thailand. Besides the peculiar form of Loha Prasast, the interior space is by far more complex and interesting than the exterior metal feature which is usually known. 

Loha Prasast could be called as 'architecture of circulation', because the whole building is mainly circulation centering around the center with 2-axis symmetrical plan on every floor. The ground floor is layers of corridors formed by arch colonnades that are exactly the same on the four sides. Natural light penetrates through the layer of arches leading through the darker center where the spiral stair situates.

Walking up through the central spiral stair until reaching the second level, the first scene is a Buddha image with natural light on its front. The light is from a very narrow open space layering between the main part of the building and the outer ring colonnade where the Buddha images are placed. Turning back, left or right, the exact same scene appears. Without seeing the surrounding, it is impossible to tell where exactly you are, which direction you are facing. The rest of the area on this floor is mainly a circulation layering around the center, like an onion structure, which does not lead to anywhere, but getting you lost in the space. The more you try to get out via the outer ring of the building, the more you get lost because every direction looks the same. It is as if you are confined in another world, complete cut from outside.

Finally after giving up to get out from the outer ring, you walk up to the next level from the same spiral stair, the same kind of scene appears again - every direction looks the same. Again, orientation and direction sense are destroyed. The world outside is totally blocked.

The techniques of de-orientation and de-perception of the outer world  are the key issue of the interior space of Loha Prasast. On every level, getting up higher, you will have to get through the process of losing your orientation and cutting yourself from the outside world. It is not until they reach the 4th level that you begin to have small glimpses of the world outside.

When reaching the 7th level, the destination, where Buddha's relic is installed, you can see the whole outside world from above - the whole city is before your eyes.

It is said that Loha Prasast is an architecture built upon the teaching of enlightenment practice in Buddhism (พระโพธิปักขิยธรรม) which carries 7 chapters and 37 rules. The building, then, holds 7 levels with 37 spires. But if scrutinizing closely into architectural design aspect, the building means a lot more profound than the numbers.

The journey from the lowest level until the highest one to pay respect to Buddha's relic could be compared to one's journey of practice to reach enlightenment. The interior space is to display the state of mind of those who are into the journey of practice - getting lost, not being able to understand the world, getting higher and higher through the internal stair, while the natural lights just help to identify roughly the territory. The higher one gets, the brighter it becomes, because the distance between the center and the parameter of the building deceases reversely with the height. When one reaches the highest point of the building, after getting lost in the dim space, the extremely bright space appears before the eyes, the mind get relieved and lighted. This is an imitation to the state of mind when one reached the enlightenment that one could see the panoramic view of the world from above. Finally the world is the world.

Thinking of the circulations in the building more, it could be also use as a walking meditation space for those who practises meditation to reach enlightenment.

The building began its construction since the reign of King Rama III, which is about 160 years ago, and just completed recently. It is perhaps one of the best buildings in Thailand that could interpret Buddhism teaching into physical space with very refine and subtle techniques.

In comparison to the recent trend of using whatever Buddhism philosophy as a label claiming to  bring back our 'glorious' past of Thailand through architecture just symbolically, Loha Prasast could offer a lot more to learn.


Continue Reading

27 Rirkrit's House in Chiangmai

It was last Wednesday afternoon that Stefano and I had a chance to visit the newly built house of Rirkrit Tiravanija in Chiangmai through a very kind invitation of Aroon Puritat (a long time friend of mine and the architect of the house). For those who are not familiar with the name of Rirkrit, he is perhaps the most internationlly renown Thai artist. His works are very interesting and have a lot to do with architecture. As an architect, I am always amazed and impressed with the way he uses architecture as a tool to reflect and criticize...The first time I experienced his work was in 1997 at Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York where he built a 1:2 model of the Glass House of Philip Johnson in the courtyard of MoMA which was also designed by Johnson himself. The dwarf Glass House was made to be a playroom of children.

Our excuse to visit Rirkrit's house here was also to interview him and feature the house for Abitare Magazine (one of the most interesting design magazines in Italy).
The interview took place in the kitchen with Aroon, very informal and relaxing atmosphere.






We also moved around the house to talk about the house, his works, his opinion about art, architecture and ..the world.


Rirkrit told us that the idea of the house is to have very simple concrete building, elevated from the ground - the least touch. The exisiting site has a lot of trees, they did not want to cut any of them. So the building is inserted in the site in a zigzaging manner among the trees around. The main space is this big, simple, rough but very strong courtyard of the house where the main activities (the kitchen, the library and the entrance). The veranda running around the courtyard, connecting everything around together is very crucial part here... Altogether, the space is very relaxing but strong... I believe that it is the first real 'contemporary' Thai house.




The entrance of the house is very nice.. rather high and rough concrete block wall inserted between the trees lead us to the main court yard of the house..

Because the idea of the building is really to have an actual contact with the site, especially the existing trees, the construction process is very important. The house began with some models and very rough drawings - without construction drawings. Aroon, the architects, spent more than two years on the site everyday supervising and designing along with the construction. Both Rirkrit and Aroon developed a very interestingly good relationship with the contractor who is from a far village of Chiangmai and his ten workers. You could feel from the existence of the house which carries some kind of spirit or touch of human - the one that you rarely find nowadays especially those buildings that come out from 'render farms'.


The other courtyard on the other side of the kitchen, on the left is the entrance of the house, on the right is the gardener's room.


The studio is another impressive space. A big volume with glass walls on two sides. What you see from inside is trees and tress around.

The kitchen. Rirkrit said that for him, kitchen is perhaps the most important part of the house along with the bathroom. His early works (also up until now) always deal with food and cooking.


From the kitchen, there is a stair leading to the upper level. For me here is the most impressive space... where you are surrounded by the trees. Rirkrit uses this space as his working space..



The upper level has also a small guest bedroom. Apart from that, there is only the flat roof of the lower level, which become a passage taking you around the house.



Some might be curious, if the flat slab concrete roof would be leaking. Rirkrit said, "well, if it leaks, let it leak. We will fix it, meanwhile we can always use a bucket". Aroon, the architect, even used prefabricated concrete slab to make it. He just told the contractor to put some more steel and poured another layer of concrete on the top.



The walls in between the bamboo confirm the idea of inserting the building among the trees.


The concrete walls...

So far, it is perhaps the most impressive house I have ever seen in Thailand. Very strong, very rich, very touching.. As an architect, I thank to Rirkrit, a client who is brave and cool enough to build such a house. Also as an architect, I thank Aroon, who proves that to be a good architect you don't need to be fancy, but you have to be patient, persistant, brave and strong. :) a deep bow of respect and congratulations.

If you wan to see the drawings of the house (it was done afterward, of course), get an issue of art4d, September 2007. Enjoy!

Continue Reading

22 Mutti & Associates Architects + Via Ventura Project : When one really wants to become an architect.

To be an architect is not so easy job, to be an architect in a place like Italy is even more difficult. Everything there is already built. The birthrate is low, the population is almost shrinking. Moreover, everywhere is 'a history', from few thousands years old to few hundreds years old - they have to be preserved and preserved. As a young architect in Italy, a usual job would be to make a renovation or interior design of an existing building. To get an opportunity to design a whole building is even more than to win a first prize of a lottery! I always feel that I am very lucky not to be born as an Italian architect, otherwise I would give up this profession long time ago!

But Gianluigi Mutti's approach to be an architect in such a difficult place like Italy is very interesting. For several years, he was one of the main characters in the office of Ettore Sottsass (one of the masters of Italian design of the 20th Century). After quitting the office, instead of waiting for a client to call him to design a building, he began his own project. He has this idea to transform an old industrial area (factories and its facilities) around the suburb of Milan to become a 'hip place' for art and design community. In order to have a chance to design, he did not only become the entrepreneur of the project, but also the contractor. Very impressive indeed.

Gianluigi Mutti in his office.





His first project at Via Ventura is very fascinating. Now it is one of the hippest spots in Milan where there are the headquarter of Abitare Magazine, several art galleries, several design offices, School of Design (Scoula Politecica di Design), an art&design bookstore and etc. Besides, there are a number of 'loft' space where it is practically very trendy apartments.

Gianluigi Mutti himself has his architectural design office here in the compound of Via Ventura, mutti&architetti. The office is a very vast space, impressive scale with around 10 people working there with a very friendly dog - Aki.

At the top floor, he has his penthouse, where he also makes a number of experiments of new materials and construction detail. Unfortunately when we were invited to have dinner there at the penthouse, my camera was out of battery :(

The atmosphere of the overall project at this 'Via Ventura' is very nice, although architectural vocabulary is not yet significant. You can really feel the enormous efforts in making it!





The most interesting part for me is more on how to become an architect, who has a chance to build, to really 'create a place' for living, especially in such a context where there are zillions good architects out there without much to do.
Gianluigi already finished another gigantic industrial area reclaim in the suburb of Milan in Via Cascia - of course the place is getting very trendy as well. For the moment, his office received a lot of commissions to design also new buildings. After creating his own 'stage' to show his design skills, people began to recognize him and his team - very successful indeed.

The latest part added to Via Ventura project is even more interesting. Few months ago Gianluigi launched a communication tool, a website of the project called Ventura Broadcast --> www.venturabroadcast.com. It is a web magazine about design and events of Via Ventura compound and all around the world. It is quite a cute and intelligent way to create a design community both physically and virtually. Furthermore, it helps also to give a brand value to the project / the compound. The website is developed by Interaction Design Lab, Milan: www.interactiondesign-lab.com --> next time we talk about it :)

If you have a chance to visit Milan, as an architect, Via Ventura project is another interesting place to visit apart from those conventional ones like Duomo, Pirelli Building or the Last Supper. Perhaps, if you are lucky, Gianluigi could tell you how to become an architect as he did.

Continue Reading